Lingerie and underwear are the clothing we all wear closest to our skin everyday, yet few people really think about where it comes from, or who made it.
If sustainability is something you care about, switching to ethically made lingerie and underwear is a small but powerful step towards supporting change not only in the fashion industry, but also for our planet.
But what exactly makes an item of clothing or lingerie ethical? And how can you tell the difference between genuine sustainability and greenwashing?
In this guide we will break down:
What does ethical lingerie mean?
Why it matters for people and the planet.
How to shop for truly sustainable lingerie.
Where to find brands that align with your values.
If you are ready to start making more thoughtful choices, keep reading.
The Amelie Bra by Hopeless Lingerie, is sewn to order in our Melbourne studio, with deadstock fabrics
What is Ethical Lingerie?
Creating ethical lingerie encompasses design, production, the sourcing of fabrics, and inclusivity of sizing and fit. It is in direct contrast with the dominant trend of fast fashion that is currently overwhelming our planet, with the focus on synthetic, disposable products that are replaced after very few wears.
1. Sustainable Fabrics & Materials
Fast fashion and mass produced underwear and lingerie is typically made from virgin synthetic fabrics such as polyester. These fabrics don't hold up to washing, can shed microplastics that pollute waterways, don't break down in landfill, and don't let your body breathe.
Ethical lingerie design prioritises natural fibres such as organic cotton, modal jersey, hemp and silk. Deadstock fabrics can be sourced from wholesalers and online marketplaces, and because lingerie uses small pieces of fabric these supplies can go a really long way. Prioritising recycled nylon fabrics, and ensuring the quality of synthetics that are used, will hold up to wash and wear for as long as possible.
Here at Hopeless Lingerie our modal jersey is used across our Essentials collection. This fabric is made from FSC certified birch trees, and turned into fibres in a closed loop system ensuring minimal water waste. It is then knitted right here in Melbourne, around 30 minutes away from our studio in Blackburn.
2. Fair Labour Practices
The biggest fashion companies employ numerous different factories across the world to create their products. The biggest problem is traceability. Factories often outsource work when they have short deadlines, and so while top level factories might have the correct certifications, you can never really be sure how the secondary factories are treating their workers. Are they being paid the correct wages? Receiving overtime and appropriate breaks? Is the workplace safe?
When you buy from small, independent brands, traceability is much easier. The people you speak to over email and on instagram, are often the same people designing, sewing, and packing your orders.
3. Thoughtful and Waste Free Production
Fast fashion isn't the only problem with the fashion industry. Luxury brands have been known to burn excess stock after poor sales, in order to keep exclusivity. We have infinitely more clothes than we could ever need, yet brands are still overproducing and gambling on what they think might sell.
Ethical lingerie and clothing is small batch and made to order. This means that often your order is cut just for you, once you place your order. If a design doesn't sell, there is no waste. Fabric can be used for other designs.
Recently we designed a new collection of patchwork pieces to use the smallest of our offcuts, and ensure as little as possible is wasted. You can shop our Eternal Collection here.
4. Body Inclusivity
Factories work with minimum orders, and meeting those minimums is a challenge in a number of ways. The more sizes a brand offers, the more expensive their production will be. Grading and fitting these sizes to make sure they work on different bodies is also expensive and time consuming. Fast fashion is purely about maximising profit, so ensuring things fit well and are offered in a variety of sizes is not the priority.
Made to order brands are able to cater to the most diverse range of sizes and bodies because every single item is made just for the person who ordered it. We can shorten or lengthen a hem or straps, widen a gusset, or adjust bust sizes for anyone that has ever struggled to find something that fits.
Hopeless are proud to offer a custom service for anyone who can't find what they're looking for. Get in touch with us here if you would like something special!
All Hopeless styles are available in XXS-5XL, with custom requests outside that size range always welcome. Shop our lingerie collection here.
Why Ethical Lingerie Matters
1. The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion
This 2021 report estimated that 15 million used garments are delivered to Accra, Ghana every week. Nearly half of what they receive are such poor quality they are deemed unfit for resale, and sent straight to landfill.
The petroleum based resources that synthetic fibres are derived from are not sustainable, and do not break down. Once these items go to landfill, they shed microplastics and enter waterways, affecting wildlife and drinking water.
2. The Reality of Unethical Labour Practices
There are 75 million garment workers employed in factories worldwide, and it is estimated that less than 2% earn a living wage. (Source)
Very few brands disclose the factories they work with, making it incredibly difficult to hold them accountable. Workplace safety, overtime, break time and annual leave are not always upheld by factory owners, and without transparency in these areas it is impossible to be sure how workers are being treated.
3. The True Cost of Disposable Clothing
When garments are made as quickly and cheaply as possible, it is unlikely they will last more than a few wears. It takes time to develop products that will last, and to utilise materials and fabrics that will stand the test of time. This is especially true for lingerie and underwear, which are worn closest to the skin everyday. While lower cost items will get you more for less, in the long term you will get more value investing in pieces that you absolutely love to wear, and that are designed to last.
Our 'Ophelia' Cami is inspired by medieval corsets and 1980s lingerie. Shop styles from our latest collection 'Immortal' here.
How to Shop for Ethical Lingerie
1. Start with the fabrics.
For everyday underwear, look for natural fibres such as modal jersey and organic cotton. For special occasion wear, look for brands that use deadstock fabrics, recycled nylon, practise upcycling, and source vintage textiles.
2. Research the Brand's Story.
Are they independent or do they have a parent company? Are they transparent about manufacturing? Are they committed to sustainable fabric options? What is their size range?
3. Choose pieces that you absolutely love, and that will last.
Ignore trends and sales, and take the time read about who you are buying from. Make sure you really want what you order, and that it serves a purpose in your wardrobe and in your life.
4. Learn to look out for greenwashing.
Keep an eye on brands who use vague terms such as eco-friendly or conscious, without any further information to back up their claims. A lack of transparency about where clothing is manufactured is also a big red flag to look out for.
In recent years bamboo has become a very popular fabric in the sustainable fashion world, however it might not be the best choice if you want to shop ethical. The process used to turn the bamboo plant into fibres often uses a heavy chemical process and large amounts of water. There have been improvements, but make sure if you do want to shop for bamboo, the brand is open about where and how it is manufactured.
We have a collection of corsets made from upcycled and vintage fabrics, that can be customised and made for any size. Shop our Corsets here.
Our favourite Ethical Lingerie brands
Hopeless Lingerie of course! Since 2008 we have been making all styles in house, prioritising sustainable fabrics such as modal jersey and organic cotton, recycled, deadstock and vintage fabrics. Every single item is made just for the person who ordered it, meaning that we never send anything to landfill. We've recently introduced a line called 'Eternal' to make the most of our smallest fabric offcuts which you can shop here.
The best resource we know is the Good on You Directory. It is an incredible place to discover thousands of brand sustainability ratings.
Final Thoughts on Making the Switch to Ethical Lingerie
Lingerie should make you feel comfortable, confident, and align with your values. By choosing to shop ethical you are supporting change in our world, to improve the lives of garment workers worldwide, reduce waste and pollution, and curate a wardrobe that you are excited to wear everyday (and night).